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Introduction
This is a blog of the Jazzbeaux Caribbean Charms cruise on Oceania Riviera from January 14 to 28, 2022.
We drove down to Florida over four days, because we wanted to see some Gilded Age sights in St. Augustine, Winter Park and Palm Beach before boarding the ship in Miami. The cruise was originally scheduled to visit 10 Caribbean ports, but thanks to Covid our itinerary was rearranged several times and we ended up only visiting 6 ports (one for two days and one twice) as we went wherever they would take us. After the cruise we spent two nights in Miami and then two nights in Crystal River.
During the trip, Jazzbelle kept detailed notes and I [Jazzbeau] took lots of pictures. After returning home, I revised the notes to remove names [to protect the guilty, as they say…] and put it in my voice to avoid confusion. Jazzbelle became ‘DW’ in internet parlance [‘Dear Wife’].
In planning for this trip I used Caribbean Ports of Call (2011, never updated), Fodor’s Essential Caribbean (2020), Fodor’s Caribbean Cruise Ports of Call (2020), and Fodor’s Florida (2021), as well as Trip Advisor[www.tripadvisor.com] and, of course, Cruise Critic [www.cruisecritic.com].
What follows is a day-by-day account of the trip, with lots of pictures, followed by a Conclusion with our review of Oceania and Riviera.
Enjoy!
And if you found this blog directly, here’s a link to all our other travel blogs: jazzbeauxblogs.wordpress.com
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Mon. Jan. 10, 2022 – On the Road Again
We left home shortly after noon. It was sunny and 29. Brrr!
DW drove south on I95 to the Richmond area and we stayed in the Hilton Garden Inn Richmond Innsbrook in Glen Allen.
We usually dine in Hondo’s but opted for Capital Ale House. Not a great choice. DW’s mussels were off so she made do with MD crab soup (there was crab in it?) and a nice salad of spinach, walnuts, strawberries and Brie. I enjoyed a good stout, but the meal was meh: Kielbasi/cabbage soup and fish/chips. Great place for beer, not so much for food.
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Tue. Jan. 11, 2022 – Welcome to the South
We got to Savannah after the mandatory stop in Florence SC for Krispy Kreme.
We stayed in the Hilton Garden Inn Savannah Airport which serves a good breakfast, but only till 9.
We had dinner downtown at Garibaldi Café. We ate upstairs. Only one other party up there in a faded ballroom. I had poached pear salad and DW the Garibaldi salad, then we both had crispy duck legs on cheesy, mushroom risotto and haricots verts. Nice!
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Wed. Jan. 12, 2022 – Gilded Age Florida
DW drove to Richmond Hill, GA to a CVS where we had an appointment for a rapid Covid test for the cruise. [Both negative, yeah!]
We continued to St. Augustine, FL to Flagler College to see the Tiffany windows at Ponce DeLeon Hotel. The tour was booked when I called but only the dining room is not open to the public generally, so we examined the lobby and listened to the commentary, then attached ourselves to the group for that final stop. Very interesting architecture and stained glass – probably wasted on the college students who eat there every day…
We made proceeded to the Hilton Garden Inn Winter Park.
We walked to dinner at Tamarind Indian Cuisine in a shopping center across from the hotel. DW had chicken vindaloo and I had lamb tikka masala. Both were medium spicy – just enough heat – and very flavorful. Generous portions. Inexpensive.
Breakfast was all a la carte and lacking [not up to usual Garden Inn standards], but we had a really nice waiter.
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Thu. Jan. 13, 2022 – the Gilded Age Continues
We went to the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum which holds a wonderful Tiffany collection. We enjoyed it so much that we spent two hours there, which used up the time for the other planned stop, at the Flagler Museum in Palm Beach [rescheduled for later in the trip – an omen of what was to come…]
So we headed to Miami – and a good thing too because traffic was a bear! It was like being in the demolition derby. DW drove the shortest mileage today but it was the most difficult drive.
Finding the Homewood Suites Miami Airport West was challenging but eventually we got there.
I had chosen this particular hotel because their website offered a “Cruise Miami Package” with 15 nights parking plus a shuttle to the port – but the check-in reps had never heard of it. [I have never seen it offered anywhere else either – but luckily I had a screen shot of the offer details. In any case it seems that three hotels share the same convoluted parking lot, so nobody would have bothered our car even without the proper date on the dashboard card.]
We had a spacious suite on the first floor (too bad it was near the elevator, but it wasn’t too noisy and it was certainly easy with lots of luggage).
We took Uber to and from Meraki Greek Bistro in downtown Miami. We shared a beet, goat cheese, walnut, spinach salad. Then we each got our own portion of piping hot tasty Moussaka. Wonderful, and so much food that we couldn’t consider baklava…
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Fri. Jan. 14, 2022 – Down to the Sea in … Uber
As I noted, we were staying at the Homewood Suites Miami Airport West, which isn’t that close to the port but offered free parking for two weeks for a reasonable upcharge from the regular room rate. We were very happy with the parking, especially when DW found a spot directly across from the main entrance to keep our minivan [loaded with snow bird supplies] under a watchful eye.
Our suite on the first floor was spacious but a little noisy as we faced the front of the building and the elevator was right across from our room.
The included breakfast left a lot to be desired. [Hilton Garden Inn breakfast is usually much better than this – and one of the three hotels that share this property is the Hilton Garden Inn Miami Airport West, which I would choose next time.]
We had a lot of luggage so we called for a big Uber and our driver appeared promptly in a really big Suburban. Raphael, who was Cuban and spoke fluent English, laughed at all our bags* but fit everything in his hatch. He chatted all the way to the port. [*packing light is for sissies!]
Once there, we handed over 4 bags to the porter and each kept 2 others [yes, that makes 8 total – so sue me!] while heading for the Covid testing tent to show documentation and have our noses swabbed and fill out more paperwork. Once our numbers appeared on a monitor, we were free to move on to security and check-in.
[The CVS test two days before had been recommended by Oceania, with the promise that if it was negative but today’s was positive they would pick up the costs of the cruise and the resulting quarantine. Since the CVS test was free, it seemed like a no-brainer to make the short detour.]
Then we were on Oceania Riviera! This was our second cruise on Oceania, but the other one was 11 years ago on Insignia, a much smaller ship that Oceania had rescued from the bankruptcy of the Renaissance cruise line. This one was built to Oceania’s specifications in 2012.
Our Penthouse Suite #10028 [actually one large room, but cruise lines like to call any decent-size cabin a ‘suite’ and at 420 sq ft this was more than decent-size!] was ready and our bags were at the door so in we went. We really liked the spacious layout and as the cruise went on we came to appreciate the design and fittings more and more – good job Oceania! [We’ll let the ‘suite’ thing pass…]
As our original itinerary had already been altered [Puerto Rico was not accepting cruise ships, so there went our hike through the rain forest], I went down to the excursions desk [Destinations Services] to change tours around for the first time.
Then we went to the Terrace Café (which has always featured a crew-served buffet, even in pre-Covid times) on deck 12 for lunch indoors (there are also tables outdoors). We both had bowls of mixed seafood in a pink creamy sauce/soup with haricots verts. I also had a slice of roast beef off the bone and DW a salad.
For dessert I had Humphry Slocombe (HS henceforth) Meyer lemon ice cream and DW had one scoop of the ship’s chocolate ice cream with chocolate sauce. Ice cream is one of the strengths of Oceania, both the partnership with HS for its adventuresome [and sometimes weird] flavor combinations and the regular ice cream – both are very creamy and the flavors are bold and long-lasting.
Upon returning to our cabin, we were greeted by our butler Rony Rodrigues from India. He showed us how to use the TV, etc. Then our cabin steward Luzel (Philippines) came knocking. [There was also an assistant cabin steward, who changed part-way through the cruise; the replacement seemed like a trainee so service suffered a little but we rolled with it.]
DW took half dozen items to the Launderette (a few doors down) to iron and had the place to herself.
We both unfinished packing. Lots of storage. Big walk-in closet with a chest of drawers besides all the drawers and cabinets in the room. We each had a desk. [Actually DW’s was a make-up table, which we learned because an engineer came to repair the mirror. Having both laptops out and plugged in was handy, and DW is naturally beautiful so she never needed the other function!]]
We went up to the Culinary Center on deck 12 to sign up with Chef Stephanie Hersh for several cooking demonstrations. She would do everything and we would watch but not taste. All Covid changes! But it also meant there was no charge [and I didn’t have to risk my life with a sharp knife!]
Another itinerary change! Martinique and Guadalupe were no longer among our ports of call so I had to cancel our private tour guide on Martinique. [Tours By Locals was great – fast reply to my email, cancellation accepted, refund sent to credit card.] That was the only lost port that really bothered me, as I was quite looking forward to the tour we had planned with Meri.
Dinner our first evening was in the French specialty restaurant—Jacques [named after Jacques Pépin, who is Oceania’s long-standing Executive Culinary Director]. I started with foie gras and DW scallop gnocchi with lobster and then cream of pumpkin soup – she loved both of her appetizers but it was really too much food. For our entrée we shared Bar [sea bass] en Croûte. [It had been highly recommended on Cruise Critic. I liked it more than DW.] For dessert, I had crepes Suzette and DW apple tarte.
We then went to the show in the Lounge [theater]. As we were only about half capacity of passengers, there was only one show at 9:30 and it was easy to social distance. It was called A Taste of Things to Come and featured excerpts from all the main-stage shows. [Little did we know what really was to come!]
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Sat. Jan. 15, 2022 – At Sea
We have a day at sea [planned].
Rony brought DW breakfast at 9:05 while I had a lie-in.
DW went to a talk by oceanographer Russell Moll and returned to the suite for a nap. I continued to sleep and when Luzel called just before 1:00 about making up 10028, I said, “No thanks.”
[I had warned Luzel that we would be very slow to leave the cabin on sea days and that she shouldn’t worry about the morning servicing, but apparently they aren’t allowed to just write you off so she always phoned to verify that she could go on break.]
We went up to Waves Grill for lunch. I had a Wagyu burger and sugarless raspberry ice cream [I didn’t realize that lack when I ordered it…] and DW a salad with grilled Teriyaki salmon plus chocolate ice cream.
I returned to our suite and worked on catching up on email. DW went walking (eventually inside because of the wind) and exploring: shuffleboard contest, restaurant menus, special lounges, casino, library.
The menu at the Grand Dining Room did not appeal so we went up to the Terrace Café. I got grilled lamb chops and shrimp and butter chicken [all were good]. DW had grilled lobster tail and shrimp, salad and then apple crumb pie a la mode. [It was really too late to go there – fewer choices than earlier, and the food was not at its best after sitting out. It was saved to some extent by the grill station, so those items were fresh and hot – but the entire meal was let down in my view by the lack of presentation compared to a restaurant.]
Theatre time! Tonight it was the magician Levent. With a minimum of props, he was very entertaining.
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Sun. Jan. 16, 2022 – Puerto Plata, DR
Riviera docked in Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic [as scheduled] where the temp hit 88!
We haggled with a cabbie for just a ride to the cathedral. $15.
Snarled traffic meant our getting to the 10:00 Mass at the Catedral San Felipe Apóstol a little late (at the Gloria). The bishop presided. The cathedral is a nicely designed building, with lots of open windows for ventilation. After Mass I took photos, then we headed outside as mourners gathered for a funeral.
It was almost like being back in Istanbul when local guides tried to get our business. One followed us to the phony Ambar Museum which was light on informational displays and a ploy to dump you into the big jewelry shop. We bought nothing but did use their restrooms. On the way we saw the Paseo de Dona Blanca and “Umbrella Street” [C. San Felipe].
We walked to Casa Museo General Gregorio Luperon, but his beautifully maintained building was closed.
We found our way to the real amber museum: Museo del Ambar Dominicano where together we paid $4 for admission and received a private tour by a lovely young woman. She gave us an informative talk through the exhibits and at the end, even tried calling Luperon to see if they were opening. [Turned out it was only open for the ship’s tour, and by the time we walked back there it was closed again.]
We walked along the seafront promenade about halfway back to the ship when a taxi pulled up. After more negotiating, we agreed to $10. He dropped us outside the gate [because it seems he wasn’t part of the official taxi group], we took a shortcut to avoid all the touristy shops and then took a free jitney along the pier to the gangway.
DW napped for a half hour before we had lunch in Terrace Café. I opted for pizza [freshly made, very good!] and DW had bouillabaisse and red cabbage salad (not again—onions!). She definitely needed her chocolate ice cream and syrup to cover up the onion taste…
DW picked up the art scavenger hunt spot sheet and started tracking all kinds of media. [She clocked 14,000 steps that day.]
I went up to the Sanctuary for the Cruise Critic Meet & Greet [people who are on the Cruise Critic “roll call’ thread for this cruise) and DW joined for a while.
Tonight was dinner at another specialty restaurant, Red Ginger (Asian fusion). We both ordered and enjoyed their signature dish Spicy Duck/Watermelon Salad. I loved the salmon and scallop ceviche appetizer, and DW liked her tiger prawns in chili sauce so much that she decided next time to ask for it doubled as her entrée. For entrées I had lamb chops and DW crispy chicken. Nice but not so tasty as the appetizers. For dessert, DW had warm ginger cake with apple cardamom ice cream and a pot of white ginger pear tea. Lovely! I had “bounty cake” and a pot of orchid vanilla tea [recommended on Cruise Critic]. Yum!
Afterwards, our waitress chatted with us and we found common ground: Yonkers, NY. She said her father, grandmother… had moved there from the Philippines and that her dad worked in St. John Riverside Hospital. She gave us a note to get to him.
When we arrived for the evening show, we found out that the ship entertainers were not available to perform [as we later leaned, because of Covid] so we had a very talented pianist Linda Gentille who had earned her chops with Liberace.
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Mon. Jan. 17, 2022 – At Sea
As we are not docking in Puerto Rico as originally scheduled, we have another day at sea.
DW had breakfast in Terrace Café and was happy to have fresh raspberries and strawberries.
She then went for the mandatory Eurofins (Covid) testing and found a few more scavenger hunt items before waking me for his test. I went up to Baristas for coffee (the best) and pastry (not the best). [Baristas has a big fancy Italian espresso machine and a staff that knows how to use it – wonderful lattes! I did not like the automated coffee machine in the Executive Lounge or the Terrace Café.]
The hunt continues. It certainly is a way to get to know the layout of the ship, get in exercise (try to use stairs only), and meet people.
DW lunched in the Terrace Café: ribs and salad, chocolate ice cream… I opted for strawberry ice cream in Waves. Yum! [They didn’t fool me with the no-sugar thing again…]
We went to our first cooking demo from 4:00 to 5:00 where Chef Stef prepared recipes from Red Ginger: lobster pad Thai, miso sea bass, pommelo rice paper rolls, duck watermelon salad. No samples! [thanks to the CDC ☹️]
Dinner was at another specialty, Polo Grill. I had foie gras and New England clam chowder, and DW had the jumbo shrimp cocktail (3 shrimp) and lobster bisque. Then we shared a 32oz. Porterhouse steak cooked medium rare. Lovely! Dessert was crème brûlée for me and Granny Smith apple crumb pie a la mode for DW.
[Steak was the downfall of our earlier Oceania cruise, and the prime reason it took us 11 years to return. On that cruise they never delivered a steak cooked the way we had ordered it. I am pleased to record that on this cruise the meat was always cooked exactly as we asked.]
That night DW began her inside walking. 2 miles in the corridor. On deck 9 one could make a full loop [also deck 8].
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Tue. Jan. 18, 2022 – Philipsburg, St. Maarten
Docked in Philipsburg, St. Maarten (Dutch side) [as scheduled] and it was 83 and sunny.
Hard to believe, but I was up at 7:30 to go on an America’s Cup sailboat race on True North IV – we lost but it was lots of fun. [They lied and said you could either join the crew or just watch: everybody had to take some job; thankfully got to be the timekeeper which was basically sitting and watching…]
DW slept in a bit and had her usual breakfast (All Bran and fresh berries—blues today) at Terrace Café before continuing the hunt.
I returned around 11 and napped after my lunch in Terrace Café. It was Asian today—a mild green curry with chicken, plus vegetables. I also got a chicken dumpling before my ice cream fix—pistachio plus HS “sesame ice cream.”
DW waited for 2:00 to get coffee plant-based ice cream at Waves. Yuk! [They didn’t fool her with this again either…]
Then DW spent an hour walking around the immediate port area with all the jewelry stores (Diamonds Int’l…) and local stalls – to get sun and exercise. [No purchases…]
The hunt continues.
Dinner at the 4th and last specialty restaurant, Toscana’s. Novi and Budi were our excellent wait staff. I had fried calamari (excellent), lobster/risotto, sea bass, and peaches Zabaglione. DW had eggplant rolatini, veal Marsala and apricot tart. Good meal!
DW definitely walked the corridor. 15,000 steps for the day!
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Jazzbeaux Oceania Riviera Cruise 2022 